Issue 08Autumn 2026
Cover story
Alli Reed on what a plant must prove to stay
Alli Reed learned formulation from dermatology journals and Reddit, then grew Stratia from a home kitchen into a Los Angeles lab. She says why her evidence-first brand bans essential oils yet keeps two oils from the sea buckthorn berry.
Read the story →
14 min read
01Featured
Now on the record
02Where we stand
“Clinically proven” can mean twenty people for four weeks, scored by the brand. We read the study behind the retinol 
, the barrier serum 
and the spot treatment 
, and say we do not know yet when that is the honest answer.
01
conditions
Shop the formulary+
02
formulas
Shop the formulary+
04
life stages
Shop the formulary+
03News
Notes from the bench
More from the bench
Launch
→81 and what twelve months of testing can show
Ingredients
→Panahi and Nasirian tested rosemary against minoxidil, with limits clear
Market
→What growth in supplement sales changes for careful skin readers
Science
→
AutyFIT reviewed bakuchiol data, narrowing claims for shoppers
Most read
- Danielle Gronich and Kayleigh Christina on subtracting triggers that clog pores→
- Hormone depleted skin needs simpler proof, with King and Lee→
- Why Marie-Veronique Nadeau built a barrier line on restraint→
- Inside Vintner’s Daughter with April Gargiulo, testing slow skincare claims→
Newsletter
One study, weekly.
Claims checked, sample sizes included.
04Evidence guides
Guides that show their work
18 pages
PDF + checklist
Face ValueNo. 01Barrier repair planSteady calm first
Evidence guide of the month
How to rebuild a sensitised barrier in four weeks
Many barrier problems start with too much cleansing, exfoliating or layering. This guide sets out a careful four week routine that supports comfort while the evidence on repair is explained.
- Balanced lipids Ceramides need cholesterol and fatty acids alongside.
- Quiet weeks Hold acids and retinoids until stinging settles.
- Mild acidity A pH near 4.5 to 5 supports barrier order.
Free · Read it here or download the PDF
More evidence guides
Face ValueNo. 09Evening skin reset guideEvidence over hype
Rethink evening cleansing before adding extra steps
Face ValueNo. 06Protection, measured clearlyEvidence over hype
What sunscreen ratings mean for everyday protection
Face ValueNo. 02Decoding the formula calmlyEvidence over hype
A practical guide to decoding what ingredient lists reveal
Face ValueNo. 08Calm for red skinEvidence over hype
Calm redness by subtracting products first
Face ValueNo. 05Retinoids checked calmlyEvidence first
Build a gentler retinoid routine for sensitive skin
Face ValueNo. 10Proof for every climateCheck the evidence
How to keep skin steady through dry air and hard water
Face ValueNo. 04Acids under reviewEvidence first guide
Acid exfoliation, decoded step by step
Face ValueNo. 03Oils under reviewEvidence over hype
Choose facial oils by evidence, not scores
Face ValueNo. 07Acne evidence guideProof before purchase
What adult acne care can and cannot prove
05Journal
Close reads
Formulas · Essay
Alpine edelweiss extracts and what concentration can prove
How barrier repair became standard care before strong actives
The argument for shorter routines
The case for skilled hands over stronger devices
